Craft artists investigate the
potential of materials and
processes as they work.
They also might study the
history, function, and symbolism of
natural and human-made forms.
Jan Yager did not need to look
far to find inspiration for her
handcrafted jewelry; however,
she did need to look carefully.
Yager lives and works in a
rough, inner-city environment, where buildings replace
trees. Despite this austere
urban landscape, Yager made a
conscious decision to work locally,
very locally—within one city block.
As she began to investigate the
area, she came across an empty lot
overgrown with weeds. Since then,
Jan has been using this field as her
design laboratory, finding beauty in
the weeds she once overlooked.
Tiara of Useful Knowledge consists of what Yager calls “portraits”
of ten different plants, an ant, and
a pebble, each of which can be
separated from the group and worn
separately. Jan considers research
an important part of her work. She
studied each weed to discover its
origins and uses. In investigating
the history of the tiara, she found
that its roots go back to ancient
times when the Greeks placed laurel
wreaths upon the heads of victors.
Tiaras have long been associated
with royalty and, in more recent
times, with brides.
Fine metals artist James Malenda
also borrows the tiara form in his
Bride’s Crown of Spectacles, and
highlights its traditional role in
wedding rituals. The artist has long
incorporated spectacles in his
pieces, reinforcing the idea
that they, like our eyes, can
be thought of as “windows”
to the soul. This reference
continues with the enameling
technique known as plique-à-
jour, or “light of day,” used to create
the lenses. For the tiara shown here,
Malenda investigated imagery from
local Pennsylvania German folk
traditions. For Weapon II and others
in a series, he studied forms used
in weaponry during and before the
Middle Ages.
“Some people consider these weeds
the worst weeds in the world, but
I think they’re beautiful. —Jan”Yager
